4 dpm manual peavey

We are a full line MD and have been in business for over 48 years as Bill's Music! Payment must be made within 4 days! Payments accepted: PayPal. Please contact Leni at if you would like to pay with a major credit card. Domestic: We generally ship using UPS ground service lower 48 states for larger packages. Shipping insurance cost is included in all shipping quotes, for peace of mind and time savings.

Usually days delivery for most destinations. However, customs sometimes takes a considerable amount of time processing packages and it may take up to weeks to actually receive your package especially using USPS 1st Class International Mail! Unit is Pre-Owned and is in good condition. This is a classic and rare vintage synth. Feel free to ask any questions. Get it while you can. Very Good Condition. Payment by PayPal.

Contact seller for other options. I combine for shipping. US Buyer pays shipping. EBayers with negative feedback ratings need not bid. If you bid.

Be prepared to buy. Buyer must make payment arrangements within 48 hours of Auction close. This unit is in perfect working condition but. Does show some normal wear. Winning bidder will pay actual shipping cost on this unit. I ship only to the 48 states. Great Sounds! Home Studio use only.

These waveforms are run through a dynamic resonant filter to achieve the kind of fat bass sounds that will make your groove tracks stand out. Stacking these sounds up to four deep will give you dense. Rattle-the-windows bass. The Spectrum Bass is four part multi-timbral; that is. Up to four distinct presets can be sounding on four separate MIDI channels simultaneously. Also, legato style playing These controllers allow for much greater expression beyond what is.

Features 8-voice polyphonic, 4-voice multi-timbral, 1 megabyte of bit Classic Bass wqveforms, presets see pic of preset list for details Layered presets for even fatter sounds, Interface to keyboards and Peavey Midibase, Legato response in Mono and Poly and Multi modes, Fine tune and transpose, Autoflow for daisy-chajning modules, Posted with.

And two hard to find floppy disk sample collections! This is such a versatile and powerful synth full of classic synth potential! Please keep in mind that. My items are accurately described to the best of my ability. All items are shipped promptly and tracking number provided via PayPal message system. Please contact us directly if you experience any problems before leaving any type of negative feedback.

Thank you and we hope you have a pleasant buying experience. Display is kind of faded and can barely see the information being displayed. Also fourth black key from the right sticks and does not come up after being pressed. Thank You. Peavey's master controller certainly looks the business. But does it do the business? Over the past six or seven years, Peavey have gradually moved further and further into the hi-tech music market, and are now able to offer a comprehensive range of DPM synths, sampling front ends and sample playback modules that can form the basis for a pretty powerful sound-making system.

It seems somehow logical that they should introduce a dedicated controller keyboard, and with the DPM C8, this is exactly what they've done. The C8 is a serious first try for a controller: a wooden, weighted note keyboard chosen after extensive consultation with performing and studio musicians" is mounted in an imposing and Perhaps American rock keyboard types work out more than their British counterparts.

The C8 offers 64 patches, each of which can contain up to eight fully programmable Ranges Peavey-speak for what you and I might call zones Each Range can be note or velocity split, layered or transposed, and can transmit its own program change; Ranges can be sent to one, all, or any combination of four independent MIDI Outputs.

Peavey provide 17 preset velocity curves, although the user can scale velocity and define negative and positive offsets, so you can choose a velocity curve and customise it to an extent. The keyboard also has merging MIDI Ins; this is handy since it allows external controllers MIDI guitars or horns, for example to take on the attributes of the current patch, and allows external synths to send data to the C8.

The C8 has a k SysEx buffer- yo. Price to sale super fast Fast Shipping! You will get what you see in the pictures! This product will ship FAST. For AK. I thoroughly describe every item to the best of my ability; if you have any questions. Please ask! Interested parties should read descriptions; pictures are part of this description and should be examined carefully. I have a smoke free home and I sell a combination of new and used items.

Some I own myself and some that come by way of third party When selling items I receive third party, I have no way of knowing if any of the parties smoked or did not smoke around the item.

We may at times ship an item in the original box and packaging. If this is not what you want, please let us know as we cannot be responsible for the actions of the shipper with a damaged box. Accept for statements that I have made in my item description.

I make absolutely no warranties about this merchandise whatsoever; I disclaim all warranties including any warranties that may be implied by law. In the event there is a problem with this merchandise. My maximum responsibility will be to replace the item or have the item returned for a refund; I am not liable any consequential damages or ripple effect damages that may occur.

In the event of a return buyer always pays return shipping charges. Payment on a. This controller has one of the most realistic piano feels.

Everything works. A final note: I also noticed that the floppy drive was loose on the left side. This was caused by missing mounting screws on the bottom of the drive, which hold it to a degree mounting bracket. I put in some new screws M2. Since the last update, I have received many favorable comments and inquiries as a result of this article. From what I can tell, the upgrade simply consists of replacing the two operating system EPROMs, replacing the memory board with a DPM4 type, and installing thick plastic stickers on the top panel to indicate the new functions of the buttons.

For more info, see the DPM4 manual, which can be found on this page. Below is a list of all the repairs done, followed by further explanation of the most important ones:. Gotek sells many different types of floppy emulators, which use USB flash drives as the storage medium.

Up to virtual disks can be accessed on a single flash drive; in this case, a 1GB stick is more than large enough, since it can store the equivalent of 1, K floppies. It was also relatively easy to get working; I simply installed it in place of the original drive, and it worked when following the manual 's somewhat puzzling instructions.

The drive looks like this:. I haven't tried it, but it would probably work as well, and it would be a better cosmetic match. In any case, for those with no ability to write to KB diskettes, or with a dead original floppy drive, "emulators" such as this provide a solution.

However, besides that it technically works, I was not impressed at all with the quality of the device. I was so unimpressed that I decided to write a list of every fault I could name:. I can't confirm that this would work, but it seems possible based on this site. Of course, it may also be possible to fix some problems with broken original drives. Anyway, once the floppy emulator was working, I was able to load in DPM4 patches and listen to the synthesis.

All seemed good at first, but then I noticed that a harsh "crackling" distortion was sometimes heard, similar to my instrument when the DSP chip leads were corroded. Well, sure enough, all three DSP chips showed some corrosion of the leads, all thanks to the alkaline fumes from Peavey's ridiculous battery!

Here's the DSP2 chip prior to cleaning, which was the worst of all:. By some miracle, none of the traces were completely eaten through, so I was able to simply clean them with isopropyl alcohol without destroying the chips. I also cleaned the sockets, since some showed a little bit of green residue. The synthesis and effects then sounded fine when I reinstalled the chips. I couldn't do a proper DSP test like I could on my DPM3, since with the DPM4 operating system, Peavey switched to a built-in diagnostics program that is only able to test the front-panel controls as far as I can tell — I wasn't able to run the diagnostics program from disk.

I'd be grateful for more info about this, since I wonder if the built-in program is more capable than it seems. After extensive troubleshooting, I found that pin 10 one of the data lines of the floppy controller chip U's socket had corroded and broken in half.

You can see it 5th down from the upper-rightmost pin in this picture:. Another battery-fume casualty! Now, replacing a pin DIP socket is not the easiest task on a double-sided board with extremely small circular pads with plated-through holes. The best method probably would have been to use a solder-sucking iron, but since I didn't have one, I used a normal iron with solder wick.

Most of the pads unsoldered without trouble, but because it's almost impossible to remove all solder from a plated-through hole no matter what you're using especially when you only have access to one side , five pads peeled off on the top side upon removing the socket, including two with traces.

In the case of these, I ran jumper wires from the nearest vias which thin wires can be soldered into directly to the new socket's pins on the underside. This fixed the floppy problem. So, if you're having floppy issues, absolutely check the socket of the controller chip, as well as the floppy connector and the other mostly surface-mount floppy circuitry, all of which is quite close to the battery.

All in all, this one took even more effort to bring back to life than my own instrument. I must admit, I've become significantly more annoyed by Peavey's idiotic design with the battery as a result of this repair.

Besides the tactile switches and even then, who can say for sure , every significant problem on this keyboard was caused by battery leakage. Maybe these keyboards really do deserve to die early, given their flawed design? Yet, whenever I think that, I consider the joy I feel after repairing something destined to fail prematurely.

It can be quite rewarding, so long as the device has virtues that make it worthwhile, which I consider to be the case with these DPM keyboards.

As well, in fixing things like this and returning them to their owners or selling them, I know I may be eliminating the sale of a lower quality and less serviceable unit, as are the vast majority of keyboards made today. If you don't know what I mean, just wait a while, since I'll be explaining it in an upcoming article titled "What's Wrong with Modern Electronics"! The objective was to repair at least one of the boards. Unfortunately, this job turned out to be a complete bust.

The "best" of the three boards, with no visible battery damage, was unable to read from floppies, always reporting "drive speed above tolerance".

This was true even with a known-good floppy drive, cable, controller chip, and seemingly all-good supporting components R—R and all sections of U Swapping all ICs with known good ones made no difference. You may ask "why not run the diagnostics program? With that mainboard looking hopeless, I moved onto the 2nd-best board. This one had suffered mild battery leakage, but nothing appeared ruined.

Yet, this board always gave a blank LCD readout. Knowing I had a good power supply and memory board, I next checked the clock circuits. Surprisingly, the section of the surface-mount chip U that divides the 16MHz clock down to 8MHz was bad its output stuck high , resulting in missing 8MHz, kHz, and kHz clock signals. I replaced it with one pulled from the worst mainboard which had serious battery damage, and destroyed pads and traces from sloppy rework , and this fixed that group of clock signals.

But it still gave no display on power-up, so I then checked the 27MHz clock circuit, and found that section B of U buffering this clock was bad, with very low output, resulting in no 27MHz clocks either!

I desoldered and replaced it with a chip from the worst board again, and then the 27MHz clock signals were restored. Yet, the display still showed nothing. I swapped all of the socketed chips with known good ones. No improvement. At that point I called it a day. Even with three mainboards to work with, and a working DPM3 for parts and comparison, I was unable to make one working board within a reasonable amount of labor.

In mid-May of , a serious buyer finally came along and set up a meeting. Shortly before his arrival, I powered the instrument just to make sure everything was still OK. Well, it ran for about 5 minutes, then gave an "ADDRERR" message and a lack of response to any buttons despite that it said "press any button to continue". No amount of power cycling would clear up this error. So, I called off the sale. I later found that by reseating some chips and connectors, the error went away.

However, at that point I no longer trusted the instrument enough to sell it — I didn't want it to fail quickly in the hands of the next owner.

So I decided to scrap it and sell the parts as-is. The mainboard will be going to the aforementioned American fellow, and most of the remaining parts will appear on eBay. Servicing them is simply a crapshoot, due to the insidious problems caused by battery leakage, plus the inherent difficulties of obscure ICs, surface-mount parts, and diagnosing very complex digital designs with limited documentation and limited customer budget. Fixing these instruments must be done as a labor of love, and I no longer have any love for such things.

My personal interests have shifted away from digital and IC-based keyboards, and towards vacuum-tube and discrete transistor ones, which are truly the best in terms of serviceability and build quality besides sounding better , and which are thus most worth preserving. The DPM3 is not made to last, and I should also mention that in the end, I never loved any of its sounds, despite working with them for months during practices.

They are mostly the sorts of cheesy and blatantly "digital" imitative timbres common to the s, which is my least-favorite decade of the 20th century in terms of music. I also never discovered any exciting sounds via patch editing, though admittedly I didn't spend that much time experimenting. And the physical design is nothing beautiful — the usual black plastic and metal, featureless except the text all over.

At least it's better than modern keyboards, in that the body is roughly half aluminum the bottom and back portions , and at least most chips are DIP and socketed instead of surface-mount.

Will become useless at some point. Link goes to the article responding to this one. HxC — A higher-quality floppy emulator than the Gotek types. Here's the board after cleaning and after installing the new battery, but just ignore that for now : It looks much better; although some pads and traces are tarnished, nothing seems to have been really damaged.

Anyway, replacing the LP chip is relatively easy. A few tips: Make note of where the connectors go before removing the power supply board, and be careful reinstalling them, since they can easily be connected wrong. Ensure that you apply new heat transfer compound, thoroughly cleaning off the old paste.

There is a spacer that should insulate the metal tab of the LP from the heatsink. Note that the LP will not give 5V at the output unless the processor board is connected. Here's what the Effects DSP looked like: The area of severe blue-green corrosion was nearest to the battery, by the gap in the socket's plastic for the edge clip. In any case, here are the two chips he sent me: And here they are installed in the instrument right and upper left : Finally, all diagnostic tests passed, and the instrument was completely working!

So, to review, here's what it took to bring this exceptionally troublesome instrument back to proper operation: Thorough internal and external cleaning, including removal of significant amounts of battery corrosion using isopropyl alcohol, contact cleaner, and vinegar.

Replaced the internal 1A slow-blow fuse for the 5V supply, which was blown. Replaced the LP switching regulator chip for the 5V supply, which was dead. Transferred the factory programs, effects, and sequences via a K floppy disk. Cleaned the contact of the lowest key with isopropyl alcohol, since it was not playing at first. Below is a list of all the repairs done, followed by further explanation of the most important ones: Basic internal and external cleaning.

Re-located various screws that were in the wrong positions, or in the small bag provided. Re-soldered the joints of the battery, which had been newly replaced. Re-cleaned the corroded area around the battery using vinegar, isopropyl alcohol, and Electrosolve. Replaced the double-sided tape holding the floppy cable.

Added new foam underneath the bottom left side of the memory board, in order to hold it the correct height despite the missing nylon mounting post. Secured the bolt and nut holding the memory board in place in lieu of the nylon post using blue threadlocker. Loaded the factory DPM4 setup from Gotek successfully.

However, shortly after this, floppy operations stopped working. Also noticed crackling distortion in audio, and other strange digital artefacts in reverb effect. Replaced the socket of the floppy controller chip U, since pin 10 was corroded and broken. This fixed the lack of floppy operation. Removed and cleaned the pins of all DSP chips; all showed some corrosion, with the worst being originally in the DSP2 socket now in the effects DSP socket, the two were swapped.

Also cleaned the sockets. This fixed the crackling distortion in the sound generation, and strange effects processing. All replaced with Omron B3F Applied contact cleaner multiple times to the headphone level control. This fixed scratchiness. I was so unimpressed that I decided to write a list of every fault I could name: The operation is unintuitive and really just stupid.

In typical modern fashion, everything is done with a bare minimum of physical controls: only two unlabeled buttons which are tactile switches; see the previous addendum for why I dislike these. This means the undoubtedly crappy USB port will wear out much faster than necessary — if the designers added one or two more buttons, or even wrote better firmware for using the existing buttons, you could keep the USB drive in at all times!

The 7-segment LED displays or "8segment" as the manual repeatedly says shine very brightly, and have no tinted filter. Either they should've decreased the LED brightness, or added a filter; the latter option can be seen in nearly all devices using LED displays, for example the Fluke B , and almost all of the millions of LED clock-radios ever made.

The manual is written in mediocre Engrish, with some conspicuously lacking info, such as the purposes of jumpers J5, JC, and JB, and the meaning of the shown jumper arrangements. No schematics or other servicing info are provided. It is built as cheaply as possible.

The plastic is very light and hard, and I would not trust it to last another 27 years without cracking from brittleness.